Nestled in the heart of Canton Graubünden, the Laax-Flims-Falera resort area is one of the most luminous jewels of the Swiss Alps. Just ninety minutes from Zurich, this plateau at 1,100 metres combines elite sport, pristine nature and centuries-old traditions in a way few alpine destinations can match.
The region is world-renowned as the kingdom of freestyle and snowboard, thanks to the iconic LAAX snowpark. In summer it transforms into an open-air adventure park, with hiking trails, mountain biking, rock climbing and the spectacular Ruinaulta — the Swiss Grand Canyon.
History and Culture: Layers of an Alpine Identity
Pre-Roman and Roman Origins
The earliest settlements date to pre-Roman times, when Raetic tribes inhabited the valley floors and alpine clearings. Under Roman rule the territory became part of Provincia Raetia, and the name Flims — from Fli-ems, meaning “place beside the water” in Romansh — recalls this millennial layering. The Romans exploited the alpine passes for trade between the Mediterranean and northern Europe, leaving traces of consular roads still partially visible in the surrounding forests.
The Middle Ages and the Grisons League
In the Middle Ages the valley was the scene of feudal struggles between the bishops of Chur and local noble families. The community self-defence system gave rise to the Graubünden Leagues, precursors of modern cantonal democracy. Local communities, predominantly Romansh-speaking, developed a rich pastoral culture whose traditions survive in village festivals to this day.
The Tourist Discovery
Flims was discovered by European aristocracy in the second half of the nineteenth century. In 1870 the first grand hotel, the Park Hotel Waldhaus, opened — and still operates today with its Belle Époque charm. The Rhaetian Railway made the region accessible from across Europe, attracting painters, poets and intellectuals; Flims became a favourite retreat for Symbolist artists and, later, for Thomas Mann.
Laax and the Snowboard Revolution
In the 1970s and 80s, when snowboarding was still a niche phenomenon almost banned on traditional slopes, Laax was among the first alpine resorts to officially welcome it. Entrepreneur Reto Gurtner transformed the resort in the following decades, investing in an integrated sports brand encompassing the snowpark, Olympic halfpipe, design hotels and an urban-alpine culture that redefined what a ski resort could be.
Romansh — a Neo-Latin language, one of Switzerland’s four official languages, spoken by roughly 1% of the population — is very much alive in Flims-Laax. Bilingual road signs and place names tell the story of a unique alpine identity.
Winter: 224 Kilometres of Thrills
The LAAX ski area, encompassing Laax, Flims and Falera, is the largest in eastern Switzerland with 224 km of marked runs and 28 lifts. Thanks to the Vorab glacier at 3,018 m, the season can stretch from November to April and beyond, with reliable snow even in the leanest years.
| Type | Kilometres | Runs | Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Blue (easy) | 85 km | 35 | Beginners and families |
| Red (intermediate) | 112 km | 50 | Intermediate skiers |
| Black (difficult) | 27 km | 14 | Expert skiers |
| Off-piste / freeride | Unlimited | — | With mountain guide |
The World’s Freestyle Temple
The LAAX snowpark is unanimously recognised as one of the best on earth. The 22-metre Superpipe, certified to FIS and Olympic standard, has hosted generations of champions. The freestyle area includes a Big Kicker, Rainbow Box, Wallride and a Junior Pipe for younger riders. The Laax Open in January, an official FIS World Cup stop, draws over 60,000 spectators and is broadcast worldwide.
“LAAX is where modern alpine freestyle was born. Every rider dreams of having a run here.”
Beyond the Snowpark
- Sledging: natural runs on Cassons and Foppa, including the historic Alp Ruschein track
- Snowshoeing: over 30 km of day and night routes with certified guides
- Ski touring: guided itineraries to Piz Grisch (2,962 m) and Crap La Pala
- Heli-skiing: panoramic flights and off-piste descents from the Vorab glacier
- Cross-country: the Flimserstein network extends over 40 km through spruce and larch forest
Summer: Switzerland’s Trail Capital
With over 350 km of marked trails, the region is a hiker’s paradise. The Flimserstein, a karst plateau at 2,100 m, offers 360-degree panoramas of the Graubünden Alps and the lakes of Caumasee, Cresta and Lag Prau Pulte.
| Route | Difficulty | Duration | Elevation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Caumasee — Conn | T1 (easy) | 1h 30′ | +120 m |
| Flims — Alp Nagens — Cassons | T2 (moderate) | 4h | +950 m |
| Crap Sogn Gion — Vorab | T3 (hiking) | 5h | +800 m |
| Ruinaulta Gorge Trail | T2 (moderate) | 3h | +400 m |
| Piz Segnas (high altitude) | T4 (alpine) | 8h | +1,600 m |
LAAX has also invested heavily in mountain biking, with 175 km of IMBA-certified trails and a gondola-served bike park running from green flow trails to double black diamond descents. The limestone walls of the Flimserstein and the Ruinaulta offer hundreds of climbing routes from grade 4a to 8b+.
Ruinaulta, the Swiss Grand Canyon
The Rhine Gorge is the result of a colossal prehistoric landslide, roughly 10,000 years ago, that dammed the valley. The waters of the Anterior Rhine then eroded the rock, creating canyons, pinnacles and vertical walls up to 400 metres high. White-water rafting and kayaking through its rapids are among the most exhilarating experiences in the Swiss Alps.
Practical Information
| From Zurich | 90 minutes by train and bus |
|---|---|
| From Zurich Airport | 1h 40′ by direct Rhaetian Railway train |
| From Milan | Approximately 3 hours by car or train via Chur |
| Winter season | December to March — skiing, snowboard, freestyle, cross-country |
| Summer season | June to September — hiking, mountain biking, rafting, golf, lake |
Gastronomy and Sustainability
The regional cuisine blends Graubünden traditions — Bündnerfleisch (air-dried highland beef), maluns, roast kid — with international offerings in hotel restaurants. The wine landscape includes Maienfeld Pinot Noir and alpine herbal spirits.
LAAX is committed to sustainable tourism: 100% of the energy for the lifts comes from renewable sources, hydroelectric and solar. The Vorab gondola is among the most energy-efficient in Europe, and local projects continue to reduce plastic waste at mountain stations.
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