On the border between Poland and Belarus lies the last great expanse of lowland primeval forest surviving in Europe. Białowieża Forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, shelters centuries-old trees, untouched marshlands and the world’s largest free-roaming population of European bison.

It is the only place on the continent where the żubr can be observed free-roaming in its original habitat — a species saved from extinction thanks to breeding programmes born in this very forest. A place where time seems to have stopped at the era of the great royal hunts.

History: The Forest of Kings

A Forest Never Cleared

Białowieża is an exceptional remnant of the great primeval forest that, after the last glaciation, covered the entire European plain. Unlike almost every other woodland on the continent, it was never intensively exploited for agriculture or systematic logging — thanks precisely to its status as a royal hunting reserve. It has therefore retained a virgin forest structure, with deadwood, dense undergrowth and an extraordinary biodiversity of fungi, insects and lichens that depend on large decaying timber.

Grand Dukes, Kings and Tsars

The earliest written records date to the fourteenth century, when Grand Duke Władysław Jagiełło organised hunting expeditions here. For over six hundred years the forest was an exclusive reserve of kings and grand dukes: Casimir the Great, Sigismund II Augustus and later the Russian tsars forbade hunting by commoners, imposing severe penalties on poachers. This royal protection was, paradoxically, the main reason the forest survived intact.

After the partitions of Poland the forest came under Russian control. The tsars turned it into a sumptuous imperial hunting reserve: in 1894 an imposing hunting palace was built at Białowieża, today home to the Museum of Nature and Forest. Hunts organised for Alexander II, Alexander III and Nicholas II became international diplomatic events.

The Bison’s Fall and Return

The First World War marked a dramatic turning point: occupation led to intensive timber exploitation, and in 1919 the forest’s last wild European bison was killed by poachers, sealing the species’ extinction in the wild worldwide. Between the wars, newly independent Poland established the first core of the National Park in 1932 and launched a pioneering reintroduction programme based on the few surviving individuals held in European zoological gardens.

In 1929 the first bison born from a pair sourced from European zoos was reintroduced to Białowieża. From those few individuals descend all the European bison alive in the world today — one of the most extraordinary conservation stories of the twentieth century.

Winter: Silence and Snow in Podlasie

From December to March the forest turns into a fairy-tale landscape: snow-laden branches, wildlife tracks across the white ground and an almost absolute silence broken only by birdcalls. This is the best season for observing wildlife, as fresh snow reveals the nocturnal passages of bison, deer, wolves and lynx. Temperatures can drop below -15°C, giving the forest a genuinely Nordic atmosphere.

• Wildlife tracking in the snow: guided walks to identify the tracks of bison, wolf, lynx, red deer and elk
• Horse-drawn sleigh rides: the traditional kulig through the snow-covered forest, often with music and warm refreshments
• Cross-country skiing: tracks set along the park’s forest roads, suitable for all levels
• Snowshoeing: to reach remote parts of the forest without disturbing the habitat
• Winter photography: low light, snow-laden trees and wildlife visible against the white background

“In winter the forest reveals its secrets: every track in the snow tells a story of wild life that summer keeps hidden.”

Summer: The Forest in Full Voice

From May to September the undergrowth fills with ferns and wildflowers, and birdsong — over 250 nesting species, including rare woodpeckers and the lesser spotted eagle — accompanies every walk. The most celebrated route is the Żebra Żubra (Bison’s Ribs) trail, an educational itinerary of about 4.5 km through the strict protection zone with a mandatory guide.

Birdwatching and the Bison Show Reserve

Białowieża is one of Europe’s most renowned birdwatching destinations: the Dziedzinka and Narewka marshes are home to the great grey owl, the three-toed woodpecker and numerous nocturnal raptors. Observation hides and specialist guides allow close sightings in the early morning hours.

The Pokazowa Zagroda Żubrów, or European Bison Show Reserve, is a fenced area of around 35 hectares replicating the natural habitat, where visitors can safely observe bison, Polish Konik horses (descendants of the wild tarpan), elk, red deer, wild boar and grey wolves. Open year-round, it is the ideal stop for families and photographers who want to see the bison without entering the strict protection zone.

Practical Information

Local Cuisine

Podlasie cuisine reflects Polish peasant traditions along with the influence of the region’s Belarusian and Lithuanian minorities: kartacze (potato dumplings filled with meat), babka ziemniaczana, mushroom and game-based soups, and the famous local honey produced in forest clearings.

Conservation and Visiting Rules

Białowieża is subject to one of the strictest conservation regimes in Europe. In the strict protection zone, access is permitted only with an authorised guide, on designated paths and in small groups, to minimise impact on an ecosystem that has evolved for millennia without human intervention. Leaving the trails, collecting plant material or disturbing wildlife is prohibited. Far from being a limitation, these rules are part of the appeal: they ensure the forest remains authentic for future generations.